Keycool 87 Backlit Mechanical Keyboard
Keycool 87 Backlit Mechanical Keyboard
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Product Description
Assembled with Kailh switches, the 87-key Keycool features a tenkeyless design with doubleshot ABS keycaps in OEM profile. And it looks as good as it feels, with its white LED backlighting and shine-through legends Read More

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Pteraluna
26
Dec 7, 2016
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Does it make loud clicky noise? Looking for one that sounds like the old IBM keyboards
Dec 7, 2016
Loft
30
Dec 8, 2016
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These are brown switches so they are noisier than a standard membrane keyboard but they will not mirror an IBM buckling spring. The modifiers (Shift, CTRL, Spacebar) will sound similar due to the stabilizers. If you want a keyboard with this style of switch to sound clickier you should look for Blue switches.
Dec 8, 2016
chaos_jockey
5
Jul 3, 2016
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After a year of use I began experiencing constant reconnect issues then the system (any system) will see the device isn't functioning properly and prevent it from connecting until reboot, then it will either work for an undetermined amount of time and then repeat the process or simply not work. Most interesting fact is the LEDS remain lit but the device hardware constantly disconnects. I've tried diagnosing a possible driver issue but that's not it, I've attempted repairing the internal JST connector (not it either), so it has to be the hardware controller. I'm assuming it's not rated for USB 3.0 or there aren't any failsafes so something most likely shorted. So I guess I have a future project for my teensy.
USB 2.0 can provide up to 500mA USB 3.0 can provide up to 900mA
Here's why I believe this is the issue, my first mech was a red nighthawk x9 and the original build weren't rated for usb 3.0 (they didn't incorporate anything to reduce the amount of current from 900mA to 500mA) and it fried my leds and keyboard controller, they fixed it for free and redid their boards.
Future customers beware, if it any product doesn't state USB 3.0 don't try a 3.0 port, your computer doesn't know any better.
Jul 3, 2016
AnhBui
0
May 13, 2016
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anyone know where to buy the keycaps only?
May 13, 2016
Cowmanguy
22
May 14, 2016
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I don't know if I'm allowed to link so apologies if this reply gets removed later. Its these keycaps! Don't know if there's another vendor that sells them aside from this guy on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/272197335910?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
May 14, 2016
AnhBui
0
May 14, 2016
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thanks mate
May 14, 2016
cerement
166
May 13, 2016
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Wow, those reviews … Looks like if you want a budget mechanical, people are much happier with the cheaper Nixeus Moda v2 (Massdrop or Amazon) or the LingYi Black Widow (AliExpress) than they are with this board. Even the “upgrade” to the Team Wolf CIY (Massdrop or Amazon) is still cheaper (and certainly more popular) than this board.
May 13, 2016
Sathlin
27
Nov 6, 2015
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One of my keycool's had completly died as well. I still have another one of a different color. I guess i can use the keycaps to play with. but yeah, not a good brand. only lasted like 3 months.
Nov 6, 2015
Ails
151
Sep 17, 2015
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Same problem as everyone else here. First it was my left ALT key, then the f12, then N, now B is flickering. I love the switches and the board, but the LEDs are garbage. I am going to try and sell this thing and get a nicer board which I should have in the first place. I thought Massdrop was not only known for their deals, but also the quality of the products they carry. If the latter is true, Massdrop, I would not carry this board anymore.
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Sep 17, 2015
ALmty1
2
Sep 14, 2015
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This keyboard is really disappointing. The LEDs are already starting to go out. So far lost F12, Z, X, and V.
Sep 14, 2015
Hell-Bent
1
Aug 13, 2015
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Had enough with this keyboard. First one had no light on F12 and all the lights would flicker on and off. Just got replacement and no light on F12 , is there a reason for this? Even the pic that MD shows F12 is not lit up. would live with this but left arrow key does not work.
Aug 13, 2015
Sathlin
27
Nov 6, 2015
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f12 only lights up if you hit the function key and then hit f12
Nov 6, 2015
AzuReverie
30
Aug 7, 2015
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Love this keyboard for the keycaps, but wish I could get a white model. The reliability issues people keep talking about aren't giving me a good feeling either. Anyone know if there's a place to buy white keycaps with legends like on this one?
Aug 7, 2015
throttlemeister
0
May 14, 2016
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Do you know the font or have a link?
May 14, 2016
AlexAtPanc
14
Aug 6, 2015
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Got mine 3 months ago as well, and long story short, I needed to go back to my rubbery crapboard, because this one gave out.
The LED on my period key went out a couple weeks ago. The USB connection started to fritz out around the same time. I needed to wiggle it just right to get it to connect (something I HOPED wouldn't be a problem with MKs), and now it's not connecting at all. I'm going to have to go Mystiq's route and break out the soldering iron, because I am highly skeptical of Keycool doing anything about the problem.
Anyone thinking about this MK, you get what you pay for. It's not the high quality that a 3-figure board would have, the key legends are hideous, and it's a bit more spongy than I was expecting. To be fair, this is my first MK so take all that with however many grains of salt you deem appropriate.
UPDATE: Board seemed to go kaput earlier today so I cracked'er open and had a gander inside. I didn't realize how many granola bars I must eat over this thing, so I gave it a good airspray, and checked the connections. I didn't think the miniUSB connection on the PCB itself looked loose, but I made sure to disconnect/reconnect and solidly mate the two. After that, it's back working.
I stand by my earlier aesthetic evaluation. If this is your first board, it might even be the best route, because it's ugly but utilitarian, affordable without being a world-changer. You might have to do some very elementary surgery, but it's a good start before you start pulling off switches and soldering new Cherry MXs. Again, YMMV, take with salt.
Aug 6, 2015
Sturm
2
Aug 8, 2015
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I think a person would save more money by buying a high quality board in the first place instead of spending some 70 bucks on this crap and then moving on to something that is $80+ so instead of spending $80 or heck even $100 on a board, a person ends up spending $70+$80=$150
Aug 8, 2015
AlexAtPanc
14
Aug 12, 2015
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Agreed. If your aim is to save dough, skip this and get a board at a higher tier. If you want a learner board that you won't feel bad about soldering to shit before you upgrade, go with this guy.
Aug 12, 2015
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