Sennheiser PC37X randomly goes bad after disconnecting the cable ?
Greetings, Yesterday I was using my headset like normal with my macbook, just listening to music and on a call with people like usual, and the headset was perfectly fine. The stock wire that came with the headset is extremely long and yesterday it annoyed me very much that it kept getting tangled with itself, so I decided to see if the cable is replaceable. I pulled out the cable from the headset and saw the adapter, and looked online for a replacement. Upon plugging it back in, the audio sounded extremely muffled and washed out. Im not sure what I did wrong to make it mess up like that as I've always taken good care of it, ive had it for about 2 years and its always just been chilling on my desk, but anywho I thought the cable just went bad and ordered a replacement. The replacement came, and the issue is still persistant, so I am not sure what the issue is I've tried multiple different headsets and the issue is not with the port, and I also tried it with my windows laptop and...
Apr 23, 2024
I guess it uses Nichicon caps...even if they're tiny lol. Unusally, the XMOS controller is integrated into the board. Sabre can handle up to DSD-512, but with the el-cheapo XMOS you are stuck with DSD-128 max, and DoP only. Besides, 9028 and 9038 were released last year, so why get a 9018 design? It's probably better than a Modi for example but there is nothing unique about this.
No matter what, get a Jitterbug for a large improvement regardless what DAC you get.
To get your DAC playback to a level I have mine at I won't lie, you're looking at bare minimum $1500 and a lot of setting up a dedicated music server and audio ciruit, learning about power isolation ground loops power noise and so on. But getting a balanced DAC with a high quality output circuit with a USB isolator is the first and largest step in the journey.
TLDR I haven't heard this amp but also agree it isn't the best buy, and hear it sounds "cold."
I ended up getting the ODAC Rev.B and am really happy with it, though the price point of the M8 makes it a heck of a value for a DSD capable, Sabre equipped DAC.
Would this be better than ifi Nano iDSD?
That's what I am currently using and I was thinking of maybe upgrading to Micro iDAC2 or even iDSD.
Thanks for your time in advance!
My DAC costs $800. It's a Gustard X20U, and I fully intend to replace it when the higher-end products come out such as the Holo Audio DSD-only ladder DAC, the Gustard 9038 product, T+A 8 DSD DAC, etc and so on. Getting my DAC to sound the way it does now is what cost over $1,500:
Lessloss Original AC cable - $600 Audio Sensibility Statement SE XLR - $300 LKS I2S bridge + 5V Linear PSU - $430 Furutech GTX-D NFC(R) AC receptacle - $260 Supra USB cable - $60 AudioQuest Jitterbug - $50 Fanless / clean power audio PC components - $400
That's over 2k. I say bare minimum $1,500 because you could get equivalent results (probably) by spending a little less. Each one of those products was purchased for a specific reason and role in improving audio quality.
I'm not sure that I'd consider the M8 an upgrade over the ifi Nano in any notable way. The iDAC2 looks like a better unit on paper. If in doubt, you can always buy and try units from places that offer a liberal return policy, do A/B tests, and let your ears decide.
Here is a baby output stage:
Because many A/B Tests have shown very poor results in testing which DAC is which. And show that basically when it comes to audio and the quality is good the minute details are often in your head vs actual.
Just because you blew tons of money on pointless non-upgrades doesn't mean that this isn't a good DAC. Go check headfi because the reviews are pretty raving.