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AoPo AP108 Wooden Mechanical Keyboard Kit

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AoPo AP108 Wooden Mechanical Keyboard Kit

Name: AoPo AP108 Wooden Mechanical Keyboard Kit
Brand: AoPo
SKU: aopo-ap108-wooden-mechanical-keyboard-kit
Price: 120 USD
Availability: OutOfStock
Rating: 1.461538 (13 reviews)

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Product Description

Create your next keyboard with notes from nature. The AoPo AP108 Wooden Mechanical Keyboard Kit combines a real rosewood case with vibrant SMD RGB LED lights to set the stage Read More

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details

reviews13

photos0

discussions100

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Lostpub

Mar 25, 2020

Crazy question, do you think this case will fit a IKBC MF108 or f108 board? It looks like the exact layout and this boards wood case looks nice. Wouldn't have to deal with the PCB. Not cost effective at all but like that wood case.

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dbrooks75

Jan 22, 2020

Anyone know the type of LED used in these? I've got a couple that have a bad red, and I'm going to attempt to replace them.

zshiftml

Jan 30, 2020

dbrooks75Bump. Had one cracked. It's on my to-do list of fixing all the problems with this. I'll send an update once I find a compatible LED.

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apophene

Jan 9, 2020

Just got one of these things (cheaply) from eBay. 12 of the sockets are not working (one whole column, most of another and some random ones). Two of the sockets were ripped off the pads from the start. I have un-mounted the USB daughter board and that didn't help. Has anyone managed a fix? Would love to hear about it. I will break out the multimeter tomorrow and see if I can figure anything out.

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PooStick

Nov 13, 2019

First, a few questions:

What is the "108th" key all the way in the top right corner supposed to do? How can I test that the key is actually working? It's not currently registering as anything.
Can the Fn/Menu key be remapped? How can it be tested?

I had a host of issues with my keyboard as well, though I think that I might fixed them. It seems that the Fn key and Right Win key locations are swapped by default (as compared to all of my other keyboards). When I try to remap the Fn key to be a Right Win key, nothing happens when I press it. I can't tell if this has something to do with the software, or if the contact is just not working. Can anyone confirm? Likewise, can another key be mapped as the Fn key? I'm not sure how to input that as a choice into the customize section of the software. -- edit-- The contact for the bottom-right Fn key does appear to be working. When I choose a light scheme like "explosion" or "ripples" that reacts to a keypress, pressing the Fn key does cause the keyboard to light up. I'd still like to be able to remap it, though.

(Edited)

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famguy07

Nov 12, 2019

It's a shame such a beautiful keyboard has such shitty mounting. That is my only complaint, but its a huge one. First, The mounting of the USB C daughter board was too tight or something, much like @Igarashi below. However, for me, not one of the keys on the board worked. After removing the daughter board and retesting with it unmounted, all my keys worked, so I hope to be able to remount it with the right screw pressure to allow it to continue working. Second, as others said, the mounting of the PCB is complete shit. Whoever thought top mounting a hotswap PCB with only 4 screws from the PCB to the plate over a full size keyboard has obviously never designed a keyboard before. The good news is that the top mounted plate feels solid, as a top mounted plate should, so once you have your switches in place, they will stay and feel just fine. Getting them into place, however, is a separate task entirely. Again, as others said, the PCB warps horribly, especially on row 5 (spacebar row) and on the far right by the numpad. I did not have any issues with the hotswap sockets disconnecting from their solder joints, however, there is not a lot of solder on any of the joints, so I can easily see why others are having issues with them. If it weren't for the mounting issues, this would easily be a 4-5 star keyboard. It's absolutely beautiful. I would only drop it to 4 stars if the software (again linked below by @SpencerL) doesn't work well or is missing features. I may update that in the future. However, with the mounting issues, I have to give it 1/5 out of the box and up to 3/5 once fixed. I'll post a picture or two once I get GMK camping installed.

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CaptainPunch

Sep 1, 2020

How is this keyboard now? I saw this ad https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001033641971.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000060.1.3064221fqCmtCz&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller&scm=1007.13339.128609.0&scm_id=1007.13339.128609.0&scm-url=1007.13339.128609.0&pvid=e765c62e-ae20-44f1-9e7b-10b2d1b1c658&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreThisSeller,scm-url:1007.13339.128609.0,pvid:e765c62e-ae20-44f1-9e7b-10b2d1b1c658,tpp_buckets:668%230%23131923%2356_668%23808%235965%23313_668%23888%233325%2311_668%232846%238110%23309_668%232717%237558%23159_668%231000022185%231000069217%230_668%233468%2315615%23637 For the same keyboard and wondering if I should get this or just buy a ducky one 2 rgb and mode it for hot swapping.

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famguy07

Sep 8, 2020

CaptainPunchIt's ok, I'm actually typing on it now, since I needed a numpad recently. As I mentioned in my first post, once it's set up, it's great. Also as seen in the picture, its still a beautiful board. However, the right Windows key and context key still don't work, along with numpad 3. I don't use any of these keys, so I haven't opened it up to see if its a bad solder job, or what. My suggestion is still the same when I first got the board. If you want a working product, out of the box with no hassle, avoid this. If you are willing to put up with and troubleshoot some (fixable) issues, and prefer the look of this board, go with it. It's still very much a 3/5 with the issues, but it makes up for it with its looks.

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JohnRCooper

858

Zslane

Nov 8, 2019

Is there any documentation for this board? Like, what the default key assignments are above the numpad? And how to control the RGB LEDs (I'd like to turn them off, for instance)?

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SpencerL

2946

keeb weeb

Nov 11, 2019

JohnRCooperhttps://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1AU-9ctww7ljWHPZCWuKMVQy1gV6KpaKP

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JohnRCooper

858

Zslane

Nov 11, 2019

SpencerLSo the documentation is extracted during installation of the programming software?

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Solanthos

Nov 8, 2019

My F2 and F4 keys don't work. Had issues with a few others, swapped switches and they worked. With these, I've tried known good switches from elsewhere on the keyboard and everything. Haven't had time to take it completely apart to check the solder points or anything - need to pick up a small enough phillips head to do it. Either way, it's a little disappointing.

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k-sy

Nov 11, 2019

SolanthosYeah, I ended up with three different problems that resulted in nonfunctional keys, two of which had to do with the switches themselves. But aside from those two, one of the pads for the spacebar's kailh PCB connector was not properly affixed to the board. If I held the connector tight to the board, it would work, but without that pressure, it wouldn't. A quick soldering job got that taken care of. But yeah, I agree, it was rather disheartening how much fiddling needed to be done after going through the assembly process to get it to work. I think I ended up attaching and removing the rear panel probably four times before everything was working as expected. Also would be nice to have a copy of the RGB function key diagram in English. Google translate's dynamic translation via my phone's camera helped a little, but still, a full description and proper instructions would be very much appreciated. I don't really like the idea of installing some random "programming" software, and would likely be totally fine with the built-in RGB programs. It's just hard to figure out what they all do.

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dbrooks75

Nov 7, 2019

Is there a certain type of switch I should buy to allow the led light to get to my double shot keycaps?

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Igarashi

Nov 7, 2019

dbrooks75I know Kailh box switches work fairly well, but it'll never be as bright as in-switch leds.

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Igarashi

Nov 6, 2019

For anyone trying to assemble their kit: 1. the sockets for the switches don't have a lot of solder, so you'll need to press on the socket from behind when installing a switch, otherwise you may rip the socket off the pcb (like i did). I would careful in the future whenever changing the switches. 2. I also needed to loosen the screws holding the small usb-c board, because as installed from the factory; the board pressed on the main pcb in a way that caused the "F9" "-" "P" ";" "?" & "WIN" keys to not function.

zshift

Nov 6, 2019

IgarashiJust ran into this (bullet 1). Ironically, I had to solder jumpers because the pads ripped right out. The current hot-swap inserts are not properly designed to handle the install process. There really should be through-pcb mounting vias for these, similar to how the USB-C connector is soldered on the included daughter-board.

(Edited)

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