Massdrop x Allen Edmonds Unlined Chukka Boot

This chukka boot is a collaboration between Massdrop, Allen Edmonds, and members of Styleforum. Based on Styleforum discussions, we took elements from three Allen Edmonds boots—the Amok, Mojave, and Dundee—and combined them to produce a completely new chukka. After sending prototypes to prominent members of Styleforum, we made a few tweaks before landing on a final design.  As classic as it gets, the black chukka is easy to coordinate and dress up for a day at the office or a night out in the city. 

The boot is built on AE’s 511 last, the company’s primary boot last. It features a fuller-fitting, round toe box for comfort, though the shape is still slim enough that it complements dressier attire. Because the boot is unlined for a more comfortable fit, you’ll actually feel the soft grain side of the leather against your foot. And while the upper is notably soft and pliable, the boot still offers a bit of structure in the toe and heel. For water resistance, the bottom of the shoe features an oil-soaked leather outsole. For traction, the heel is fitted with a dovetailed piece of rubber.

The upper is crafted from Janus reverse calf, which hails from Charles F. Stead & Co., an England-based tannery. Superior to split suede, reverse leather is made from full-grain, aniline-dyed cowhide. It’s slightly firmer than most suedes, and it’s considered the finest suede in the CF Stead line. And that’s no small claim, as the company has specialized in suede since its founding in the 1890s. Today, CF Stead is renowned for producing richly colored suede with a notably tight nap.

One of the last great American shoemakers, Allen Edmonds has been in business since 1922. The company has developed a cult following, thanks in part to the 212-step production process that goes into making each pair of shoes. Invented by the company’s founders, Elbert W. Allen and Bill “Pops” Edmonds, the process combines unrivaled materials with the tried-and-true Goodyear welt, which allows the shoes to be resoled time and time again. The resulting shoes are so well regarded that presidents Ronald Reagan, George H. W. Bush, Bill Clinton, and George W. Bush all wore Allen Edmonds to their inaugurations.

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