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Drop CTRL Mechanical Keyboard
$169
$200

Drop CTRL Mechanical Keyboard

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$169
$200
Case Color:
Switch Type:
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Add Drop 3-year Warranty with Accidental Coverage (US Only) +$45.00
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Keycap Set
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Drop Phantom Plate-Mounted Stabilizer Pack
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LOOP Mechanical Switch Puller
Review Highlights:
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The last keyboard I'll ever need
My keyboard history: Keyboard #1: Ducky - LEDs died within a year. A piece of junk, but hooked me on mechanical keyboards. Keyboard #2: WASD Code - great keyboard, lasted for a couple of years, but (a) the ABS keys eventually wore through and (b) there are better switches than Cherry MX Browns, so . . . Keyboard #3: CTRL - fantastic keyboard. Outfitted with Hako Royal Clears for most of the keys, except for some keys (like Enter) which got a Kailh Box Navy (for a little click) and some keys (like the shift keys) which got Hako True Violets (my pinkies don't bang the keys as hard as the rest of my fingers). The CTRL is probably the last keyboard I'll ever need. Don't like the switches? Swap 'em out! Don't like the backlight colors? Reprogram 'em. Don't like they keycaps? Buy new ones. Now all I need is a 21-key numeric keypad to match it. (NUM Mechanical Keyboard, anyone?) UPDATE Feb 2, 2021: Still love this keyboard. No double-typing issues (yet). Still waiting for a matching keypad . . .
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Would recommend to a friend.
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Got mine yesterday and couldn’t be happier with it. The board is absolutely gorgeous. Everything works great and the led features and bright and vibrant. 10/10 would buy again but I hope they don’t make it again so I can lord it over all my friends hahaha. Can’t wait to get some of the key caps I’m waiting on from massdrop to customize it. https://massdrop-s3.imgix.net/img_comment/KYTRtoIPQCGI18hj6g00_E3A52633CE0D49E989AE43FE76796CEE.jpeg
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Q&A Highlights:
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Can I change the keycaps on this keyboard?
Not just the keycaps. You can also change the switches to your liking.
Is this keyboard loud?
It depends on what switches are installed. The switches are easy to change with the included switch removal tool.
See all 249 questions

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Aphoid
51
Nov 10, 2022
My spouse's has been working fine for a couple of years (mostly hooked up to an external powered HP USB-C docking station connected to an HP laptop). We just bought her a new M1 iMac, and the CTRL won't work on it when we plug it in directly with known good USB-C cables. I tried it with same cables directly into my older Intel MacBookPro, and it doesn't work there either. If I put a USB-C to A adapter or cable and plug it into my old Thunderbolt monitor it works, or if I use a USB-C hub that does pass-through power to the MacBook, it works there too. Do I just need to find an externally powered USB-C hub to make it work or is there some system-level voodoo to do to make it work?
Just received my board a few days ago, finally finished assembling it today. I used Gateron Black switches with Glorious Celestial Ice keycaps. I love everything about this keyboard EXCEPT the stabilizers. Keys with stabilizers sound terrible. I must find a way to fix that. Fortunately there are many video tutorials on Youtube on how to replace the stabilizers on these boards. Now I just have to find a few good stabilizers...
SamL214
10
Jul 3, 2022
After a year and a half of having this keyboard I enjoy it. But being hamstrung into using one proprietary configurator or learning new language information for raw QMK is very time consuming. I understand you want to keep everything proprietary. But that's not helpful to the mech key community. If you want to remain a global competitor in the mech keyboard space you need to show that you are willing to support VIA, on both old and new keyboards. Less newbies will come to get a Ctrl, Entr, Shift, or Alt keyboard if they know that it costs literally more than some DIY, no-solder, hot-swappable builds. Builds that can easily give a more satisfying 'Thock', are as reliable (or more, seeing some recent concerns), support multiple forms of QMK, equally sturdy, High frequency LEDs if you want them, *and* support VIA. Please guys release a firmware update for VIA compatibility. You haven't release a downloadable GUI for configuration. VIA has the best. If this is a pride thing, swallow it and release VIA support. Then, finish your GUI and make it a f**kton better than VIA. Then, make it work with any keyboard you can think of, and *boom* you have the market and everyone will know DROP means business again in the mech key community, and isn't overinflating your boutique keyboard price. People will know the price means serious love and serious business by those who care again.
Kbder
4
Jun 28, 2022
This was a very disappointing purchase. I am returning due to many issues with the keyboard. First, the left USB port often does not allow the keyboard to connect. Second, the keyboard frequently fails to power on when I start my computer. Third, the NKRO does not work. No matter what I do, it is in 6KRO mode. Fourth, there is a perceptible keyboard lag when typing compared to my Ducky that this was going to replace. I was very excited to get this keyboard since I was going to make good use of QMK to customize my keys with several layers, but having these troubles right out of the gate makes it a no-go. I contacted support, and they told me that they could not help me and I should ask the community about my issues. Sorry, but not for this price.
krubin
0
May 31, 2022
Newbie and probably very dumb question here. The short story is that I'm trying to send a specific keystroke sequence to configure a Wacom tablet and cannot get the right keypresses to register. The goal is to send a <COMMAND>+, but as the <=+> is one key, the only keystroke registering is <COMMAND>= Do I need to use QMK to set up another key to use, or am I missing something. I am at wits end. There are a bunch of keyboard shortcuts that rely on <COMMAND>+. This is an M1 Mac running the latest. Thanks in advance!
B00TS
0
May 26, 2022
I somehow lost the screws for the case. Does anyone know the size of the screws?
OrbBroth
4
May 20, 2022
[Solved] Have to Re-plug Keyboard on Every Boot Hey all, figured I'd share the solution I found to an issue I was encountering with my CTRL Keyboard. On every fresh startup and on restarts I would have to unplug and plug back in the USB cable for the keyboard. Sometimes the RGB would flash on just before the screen showing you which button to mash to get into the mobo BIOS then turn off (but still couldn't press any keys to enter the BIOS), others times I would get no RGB at all with no key presses, and sometimes the RGB would turn back on at the login screen but without the ability to press any of the keys. Things I tried: Using a different USB Port (2.0, 3.0, and 3.1) both on the mobo and front case I/O Using a different USB Type A to Type C cable (Gen 2, Gen 3 and it various revisions) Using a USB Type C to C Disabling "USB selective suspend settings" in the Power Options settings Disabling fastboot also in the Power Options settings Uninstalling the keyboard in Device Manager (worked for one boot before the issue began to persist again) Checked Keyboard and USB settings in the BIOS (compatibility mode, legacy support, etc.) Clearing the CMOS The Solution that worked for me: I originally flashed the keyboard with a .bin file created using the DROP configurator and flashed it using the Minimal ADB and Fastboot (why steer someone towards a command line program when there are already programs with an actual GUI?) program provided on DROP's website. I thought that either the flashing program (improper flash) or the configurator (possible a corrupted .bin file) might be the problem so I loaded up the "official" QMK Configurator and flashed the .bin file I compiled from there using the QMK Toolbox. So far I haven't had any issues across a dozen or so boots both fresh and restarts. Hopefully this helps anybody like me who spent hours sifting through hundreds of pages of results for searching "have to replug keyboard on every boot."
palanax
0
Apr 26, 2022
Hey Drop Community, Recently I have developed a huge interest in this keyboard, more specifically the Space Gray variant. The only downside to my preference is the key switch I want is not available in Space Gray. Is there any information about them restocking the Space Gray color with Kailhua Speed Silver's anytime soon?
palanaxIt's in stock now.
Harsh.Guru
1
Apr 16, 2022
Hey everyone, So having an issue with the qmk config for the CTRL. When I bought the keyboard early last year everything was working fine with compiling and flashing the configs with the drop qmk and mdloader. Today I go to flash a new config and two things I have noticed are not working. One, N key rollover toggle is not working no matter what key I assign it to. Two, if I unplug my keyboard on the usb c (keyboard) side and plug it back in it does not work, I have to instead unplug it from the computer entirely and reconnect it. I have flashed an older config I made from last year and its all good. Any ideas? Did something change with the QMK configuration tool?
(Edited)
jxliu
1095
Engineer
Apr 20, 2022
Harsh.GuruHi, for the USB port issue, try recompiling again and flashing again. We pushed a change earlier today. For NKRO, we're taking a closer look.
Harsh.Guru
1
Apr 24, 2022
jxliuThank you for the reply, The usb port is working again, and to add one other thing I have noticed is that the scroll lock key led does not toggle anymore either in addition to the NKRO not working.
radlord
4
Apr 5, 2022
Hi everyone, I updated the firmware to 1.0.6 on my CTRL high profile as the patch notes said 'settings now persist’, hoping that if I applied it then the last-applied brightness setting would persist between power cycles. It doesn't. But now the keyboard won't get recognised or get power when restarting the PC. It needs unplugged and plugged back in for it to work. is this a known issue? Any advice on how to get this working? Thanks, Murray
radlordGlad I’m not the only one with this issue since I flashed the board. Support offered me a replacement, but I’d love to just fix this, if it just a firmware issue
radlord
4
Apr 9, 2022
GuywhoboughtthekeyboardYeah I’ve declined the refund for now as I doubt it’ll even solve anything, once the firmware is updated again - I’d like to update it at some point as I really hate the default brightness. Hopefully there’s a new version out at some point. I think Drop support are a bit divorced from the software side of things though.
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