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Little Dot MK IV SE Headphone Amplifier
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Little Dot MK IV SE Headphone Amplifier
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101 Sold
Product Description
A special edition of Little Dot’s flagship single-ended headphone amp/preamp, the MK IV SE features the original MK IV’s solidly built aluminum chassis, internal jumper, and double gain switches—plus a few striking improvements. This version boasts a Neutrik headphone jack upgrade, premium RCA connectors, and premium circuit component upgrades in key signal path locations Read More
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keyboard_arrow_downJasoce
0
May 24, 2018
I have a like-new LD MK IVSE that is in perfect working order, no defects, you can still get them
https://www.ebay.com/itm/173329670163
robert_dykes
30
May 9, 2016
Has anyone received their replacement unit yet? I know a lot people had DOA units or other problems. My left channel was dead. After paying to ship my unit back, it has been 2 months. I have not heard from Massdrop yet. Not pleased. I think Little Dot rushed this order and did not QC the units. Not only did my unit have a dead channel it has cosmetic damage all over it.
iloveyouocean
0
Mar 21, 2016
I have a like-new LD MK IVSE that is in perfect working order, no defects, less than 10 hours use. I am looking to sell for $400.
Toles
4
Mar 24, 2016
TheRealVladIf you look about.... you can still get them for $299 - just not from MASSDROP
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Little-Dot-MK-4-Headphone-Tube-Amplifier-Pre-Amp-/201524045797
eschell
1
Mar 24, 2016
TolesThat is the standard version. This is the SE. The picture they put up for that ebay listing must have been a mistake.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Little-Dot-MK-4-SE-Headphone-Tube-Amplifier-Pre-Amp-/191806917999?hash=item2ca8954d6f:g:vloAAOSwm8VUyS1A
That is the SE
I did think it was sort of odd that this drop started off so high compared to the last couple for the MK IVSE.
robert_dykes
30
Mar 2, 2016
Finally got my Little Dot MK IV SE from Mass drop. Dead left channel. marks on the bottom. The brass ring on top is all marked up. I swapped tubes, dacs, cables, fuses, headphones. The left channel is DEAD!
Mujin
106
Feb 23, 2016
Wow, I was thrown off by the lack of warranty but the more you write about the problems makes me glad I went with a Valhalla 2. Good luck with your mods though
bugeyed
77
Feb 16, 2016
Just received my replacement LD MkIV se. The input & output jacks are wired correctly, but I notice that it too has the warped PCB. See my previous post for a picture. Guess that's the way most are made. It's not right & I will strip mine down & get the right length stand offs & clean the solder flux off the board. I resent having to do this, but at least I will have peace of mind when done. This gave me the opportunity to remove the lock on the phones jack too, before it causes an accident. I've included a picture.
Regarding the bent PCB, the tube sockets are 7/16" tall & the PCB stand-offs are 11/32". The tube sockets don't extend through the holes in the top, so the PCB bends when the screws are tightened. It may last a long time like that, but mine is getting longer stand-offs. Cleaned off the solder flux too, so that was a big relief. It is corrosive, so it had to go! I'd be curious if all of these units were made with the short stand-offs. I'd like to see inside of an older one that was not made to fill the MD order. These may be using a different tube sockets. Ones that don't fit through the hole in the case or are just taller. Longer stand-offs should take care of it.
kev
kev
Solution 1. Replace tube sockets with shorter or narrower sockets. Solution 2. Enlarge the holes in the top of the case to allow the tube sockets to stick through. I am probably going with the second solution. P.S. I hope anyone reading this doesn't think I am overly obsessing about the bent PCB, but my background in engineering & R&D sees this as a serious breaking of the rules of quality assembly. PCBs are not generally made to be bent to this degree,or at all! It will likely fail at some point. I hope for everyone else's sake that it doesn't, but mine is going to be made right one way or another. This thing does sound nice though. I have to give the electrical engineer credit here. It's the mechanical engineer that is to blame. BTW I think you should be able to disable the locking phone jack without opening the unit up. Not sure if the wires are long enough. I can elaborate if anyone wants to do it. It's easy. Update: If anyone cares??? I finally enlarged the tube holes in the chassis to accommodate the tube sockets. Used a Dremel, but ended up finishing with a course file. The large holes need to be a bit over 1" & the smaller ones about 3/4". I thought that I could use the brass plate as a guide, but the large holes need to be a bit larger than the holes in the brass cover & the small holes a bit smaller. Anyway, it's all back together & working, with a flat, unbent, PCB. One of the hardest parts is learning how to maneuver the wires to get the board out & then to get it back in. When you get the wires arranged properly, the PCB assy. comes out & goes in smoothly. Glad that's over, as it was bugging me that the unit just wasn't right. The amp is much happier now. I would like to tell you that it sounds much better with an unstressed PCB, but I really can't tell a difference. ;) Also enjoying the non-locking jack.
Regards, kev
kev
Solution 1. Replace tube sockets with shorter or narrower sockets. Solution 2. Enlarge the holes in the top of the case to allow the tube sockets to stick through. I am probably going with the second solution. P.S. I hope anyone reading this doesn't think I am overly obsessing about the bent PCB, but my background in engineering & R&D sees this as a serious breaking of the rules of quality assembly. PCBs are not generally made to be bent to this degree,or at all! It will likely fail at some point. I hope for everyone else's sake that it doesn't, but mine is going to be made right one way or another. This thing does sound nice though. I have to give the electrical engineer credit here. It's the mechanical engineer that is to blame. BTW I think you should be able to disable the locking phone jack without opening the unit up. Not sure if the wires are long enough. I can elaborate if anyone wants to do it. It's easy. Update: If anyone cares??? I finally enlarged the tube holes in the chassis to accommodate the tube sockets. Used a Dremel, but ended up finishing with a course file. The large holes need to be a bit over 1" & the smaller ones about 3/4". I thought that I could use the brass plate as a guide, but the large holes need to be a bit larger than the holes in the brass cover & the small holes a bit smaller. Anyway, it's all back together & working, with a flat, unbent, PCB. One of the hardest parts is learning how to maneuver the wires to get the board out & then to get it back in. When you get the wires arranged properly, the PCB assy. comes out & goes in smoothly. Glad that's over, as it was bugging me that the unit just wasn't right. The amp is much happier now. I would like to tell you that it sounds much better with an unstressed PCB, but I really can't tell a difference. ;) Also enjoying the non-locking jack.
Regards, kev
bugeyed
77
Feb 6, 2016
Just curious, does anyone here see any advantage to the locking phone jack? I am considering disabling the lock, if I can.
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