Sennheiser PC37X randomly goes bad after disconnecting the cable ?
Greetings, Yesterday I was using my headset like normal with my macbook, just listening to music and on a call with people like usual, and the headset was perfectly fine. The stock wire that came with the headset is extremely long and yesterday it annoyed me very much that it kept getting tangled with itself, so I decided to see if the cable is replaceable. I pulled out the cable from the headset and saw the adapter, and looked online for a replacement. Upon plugging it back in, the audio sounded extremely muffled and washed out. Im not sure what I did wrong to make it mess up like that as I've always taken good care of it, ive had it for about 2 years and its always just been chilling on my desk, but anywho I thought the cable just went bad and ordered a replacement. The replacement came, and the issue is still persistant, so I am not sure what the issue is I've tried multiple different headsets and the issue is not with the port, and I also tried it with my windows laptop and...
Apr 23, 2024
- 6ZH1P-EV/5654W Tubes supported. Cheap and easy to find. Great sounding when you score the good GE or Voskhod tubes.
- Swappable Opamp. Using the right opamp can help squeeze every possible erg of power out of the amp. Burson V5i does wonders.
- No power brick. Uses internal transformer.
- Easily accessible tubes. No savers required.
- Cheap. ~100-110USD
Dot Cons:- Single ended input only.
- Single ended output only.
- Potentiometer based volume control. Prone to imbalance and getting dirty.
- No startup mute and protection. You can experience a thump at power off.
- Ugly extrusion chassis. Feel the price, not the looks.
- Crap default 6J1 tubes. They're Chinese, and very much so not high quality.
- Internal transformer can be the source of interference. Can be, not is.
P20 Pros:- 6N3P-EV/5670W Tubes supported. Cheap and wonderful sounding. Like 6922, without the expensive. GE and Oktyabr do great here.
- Uses solid state volume control and rotary encoder. It contains a resistor network and outside of imbalance originating from the tubes, there is ZERO channel imbalance. Has memory between power cycles, volume control steps in 1dB increments, and is indexed.
- Relay protection for the output. No pops or thumps at startup and shutdown. Compete silence, other than the soft click of the relays at power on and off.
- Solid state i/o selection. Uses the same chip as volume control.
- LCD readout of volume.
- Built with quality components. Wima caps and JRC opamps.
- Balanced drive. Makes them expensive cans sing wonderfully.
- Purpose built chassis.
- No internal transformer. Uses external power brick.
- Extremely cheap. ~90-100USD
P20 Cons:- Anemic single ended output. It works and doesn't sound terrible on regular cans, but is kinda meh on high impedance cans.
- Garbage default 6N3-J tubes. They're basic Chinese and completely suck at bass.
- Soldered opamps. There is enough space to have sockets, they saved themselves $0.50 not installing them.
- Tubes are recessed into the chassis. Requires socket savers to safely deal with 5670W tubes. Also means heat from the tubes is mostly being pushed inside the chassis.
- Cheap power brick. Benefits from upgraded linear power source.
I'm still getting over the ferret shock of the new shiny. I'd need many moons to say which one is *really* better. But at this point... if I had to decide between the two, I'd go with the LOXJIE P20. More versatile, and much better overall design. There is a good set of review and measurement on SBAF for the P20. Until I find something better in the price range, I'll be using the P20 as headphone amp gifts for my friends and family.