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Product Description
HiBy is back with a new, upgraded version of the well-received R3 Pro. It’s called the R3 Pro Saber—and, true to its name, its hardware is on the cutting edge Read More
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I have the R3 and its major flaw is that the equalizer does not operate with files that are sampled above 48 kHz, so it's fairly useless if you want to use eaualization with any HiRes files. Has this been corrected in the Sabre version of the R3?
3.5 mm (single-ended), 2.5 mm (balanced)
can either of these be connected to a standard coax in for a tube amp? Also the S/PDIF output is digital, what formats?? Pre or post the internal DACs? The tube preamp I have had an S/PDIF, but no DAC. Thanks in advance!
Sms66You can connect the analogue output from the R3 Pro through the headphone socket to the dual RCA inputs on your amp with the right kind of cable. It will work with a 3.5 mm jack, suitable cables are widely available. Not sure if it's possible to get a cable with a 2.5 mm jack and dual RCA terminations.
The digital output is done through the usb port by selecting that output through the system menu. You can get a usb to SPDIF converter, but I doubt this would work for your system. SPDIF (Sony Philips Digital InterFace) cables carry a digital signal, so this type of input won't be suitable for an amp without a digital to analogue converter. If your pre-amp doesn't have a dac, it won't accept a digital signal and you should stick with the analogue output through the headphone socket.
Hope this helps. I really enjoy the sound from the R3 Pro Saber, and on-line access to Tidal is a great feature.
Sorry, I somehow missed this and just saw it today while cleaning out my old e-mails.
Here’s the thing, sometimes the price on Drop may be better, sometimes the price on Amazon (especially with Free Prime Shipping) will be better, but oddly there’s a third option — sometimes the Drop’s Amazon price may be different (either higher or lower) than their price on Drop.com. So, if trying to price an item, keep those options in mind.
Next, an item may have other sellers on Amazon, but they will all likely share the same lowest price as it will correspond to the “Minimum Advertised Price” or “MAP” that is set by the Manufacturer in order to prevent market disruption by all of their resellers trying to out do one another, which is actually very bad for business as it makes it less sustainable and devalues the product for starters!
The next thing that I’m gonna share is very important, and that is what happens to a reseller if they choose to knowingly sell below the MAP. They face punishment(s) from the manufacturer for violating their reseller agreement and they could be stripped of being an authorized reseller, e.g. making your warranty worthless as many limited warranties require that the product is purchased from an authorized reseller. Always make sure you’re buying from an authorized reseller, even if it costs a bit more! It’s never worth risking if your warranty could be voided!
Here’s what I do. Amazon could change pricing throughout the day, many people don’t know this, but it could vary several times in a single day. So, check it out throughout the day and for a few days or whenever you would like. Buy it sooner if you think it will sell out sooner than later. I also check Google to see if anyone else is selling the item. Obviously, extremely low prices are unauthorized or knock-offs.
I try to go with the most viable one. If an extended warranty is an option like it usually is on Amazon I will pay a bit more for it. Buy it on a credit card with purchase protection so if the price goes down you only have to show the credit card company and get your cash back (just make sure you know their terms before doing this). I buy everything on a credit card in case of fraud or even if it’s lost or stollen during shipping, trust me there are far less headaches this way! Finally, check the price after the purchase as it could still change, higher or lower, but if the price goes down a lot — that’s when it’s worth it for you to do something about it! — I wouldn’t worry about $5 or even $10 on an item over $100 as it’s probably not worth your time. If you paid more than $100 and you could save $25 or $30 through an exchange, a swap, a return and subsequently repurchasing, now that would be worth it!
This happened to me when I brought my PC37X as the price went down like $30 on Amazon. I purchased on Amazon for the Free Prime Shipping, and though Drop was the seller, I just figured shipping would be quicker. Now I know that if you live in the Midatlantic region, like anywhere in NJ, Philly, NYC, “Upstate” NY, etc., you’ll only have a couple day wait with Drop anyhow. Just keep in mind that I wouldn’t have realized that the item went down by $30 if I wasn’t checking back every now and again.
And, that’s how it’s done. ✌️
If transmitting to this unit via Bluetooth and then connected by wire to IEMs, is there a restriction on output resolution? Seems the HiBy itself is not (yet) compatible with Amazon Music HD, so if I'm transmitting 96/24 FLAC files to the HiBy, I'd want it maintain high res output.