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Product Description
Ortholinear keyboards are designed to increase efficiency and reduce finger travel when typing. Though it’s large for an ortholinear board, the ID75 gives you free reign over every key—so, if you get good with it, it’s bound to make work and play a lot more fun and effective Read More
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Got this in yesterday. Trying to fill in the blanks left by the Ducky Ultra Violet, but other than that, very happy with this board. Hoping for some new key drops with ortho kits soon.
It came with them pre-mounted to the board. The kit actually comes almost completely assembled with all the components pre-soldered. You just have to screw the board to the top plate, screw the bottom of the case on, and push your switches into the hotswap sockets.
I have a Preonic as well. I felt that the Preonic was too cramped or me. I needed more columns for keys. Also I felt that there is a bit of a uneven feel in the plate when you bottom out on a key. It is because the plate is recessed into the case and it is screwed on top of columns underneath the plate. I like to have a very solid feel when I bottom out. The sound chip on the Preonic was nice. They give you a notification when you do something, but in the end, I didn't really need it.
Mario.PaulEverything the others have stated is correct, but they missed one thing. Standard 2u spaces are not supported by this drop. To get it to work, you can use 2 switches and a special POS 2u spacebar, but those are not offered with any keyset I have seen on Massdrop. The preonic however, has pretty flexible options for 2u spacebars. It has options for a centered 2u space bar, dual 2u spacebars, or a single 2u spacebar offset to the left or right. This is the only thing holding me back from buying this: I don't want to use a 1u key as a spacebar.
My keyboard arrived yesterday. It's working without a hitch.
Note. If your keyboard comes with the switches already inserted on the metal plate, remove them first.
Do not put on the pcb with the switches already attached on the metal plate. Trying to put the pcb on without removing the switches will lead to a lot of bent pins and troubleshooting. After removing all the switches, only then should you screw the pcb onto the plate. Put the switches in last.
Second note. Program a reset key on your keyboard using qmk configurator.
Leave the back open on your case when you flash the keyboard the first time so you have access to the physical reset button on the pcb. The physical reset button puts your keyboard in dfu mode. You can see if your keyboard is in dfu mode inside the qmk toolbox prompts. In dfu mode, you can't use your keyboard. Click on the auto-flash checkbox in the qmk toolbox to flash your firmware when you enter dfu mode. After a successful firmware flash, you should be able to use the reset button you programmed earlier to put the keyboard into dfu mode. This way, you don't have to open your case every single time you want to flash your firmware. You do not have to drill a hole.
Re: backlight LEDs. My PCB has RGB LEDs soldered on the back of the PCB. I set "BACKLIGHT_ENABLE = yes" in rules.mk and mapped some keys to control them, such as "RGB_TOG", "RGB_MOD", and "RGB_RMOD" (from https://beta.docs.qmk.fm/features/feature_rgblight). RGB_TOG turns them on.
CresThank you for this note. My keyboard that shipped in March finally arrived (end of May). The switches are already in place so I'm going to pop them out put in the pcb and then pop them back in. Thanks again.
ZUUL42XD75 actually is USB-C since the new rev. But yeah with zero picture of the PCB we can't really tell the difference... Could be kailh socket clones or something :^
KIkalunaAhh. I must have a first-gen XD75.
They seem to always be getting lighter and lighter on the details, but this is a bit too much for me to just jump in on assumptions & hope.
Thanks.
Can anyone comment on whethe or not all the firmware/flashing issues these boards had in the last have been fixed? I’m seeing all over reddit people who have received this drop before had tons of issues getting the key mapping going.
MrSantosI flashed the ID75 I got in this drop with QMK configurator and the toolbox. I fucked up early on because I thought the ID75 used the XD75 QMK keymapping profile, but it uses the idobo profile instead.
After that revelation, it flashed just fine and it works great.
SPOSpartan104Thanks for this link. I had no idea how much low quality keyboard stuff was on amazon. Just the number of "Carbon" keycap ripoffs is amazing. Who is buying this shit? Your link looks pretty legit compared to a lot of the other stuff, but I think I'll stick to aliexpress for any of my Chinese bullshit. Really wish I had grabbed this drop while it was still active. I already own a Chinese version of this and I hope the Drop version isn't so terrible.
PykkThe Drop version is great imo. I received my third ID75 last week. Since people are receiving their keyboards. I'm assuming that the next drop for this keyboard will be happening in the next month or two. Keep an eye out for it.
Finished porting my Atreus62 Dvorak layout over to the ID75. Still working on what I should put in the middle 3 columns. The aluminum case is much heavier than I expected. It also changes the feel of the key switches, or maybe that's just a sound difference.
I have Halo Clear switches for letters and numbers. Gateron Black switches for the outside columns and 3 middle columns. And a few Zealios 78g Tactile switches for my thumbs on the bottom row. The keycaps are Carbon SA.
The layout can be found at https://github.com/nomaded/qmk_firmware/tree/ngedv/keyboards/idobo/keymaps/ngedv .
I can't seem to get my keyboard to flash. Anyone want to add some tips for this. I was trying to use the QMK on-line Configurator with the Idobo profile to make a hex file then flash that with the QMK Toolbox.
This helped me so much! Don't forget to keep the backplate off the first time for programming so you have access to the reset button and be sure to add a reset button on your keymap :)